There Is Good and There Is Excellent

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By Elli Davis, April 20, 2010

Harbour 60 Steakhouse

Address: 60 Harbour Street Toronto

It was by special invitation that we went to Harbour 60 to see the renovations and sample the new menu. What is described is an evening which will rank with some of the unforgettable ones in my lifetime. Yes, it was that good.

Let’s start with a split of Champagne. Yes, a lovely touch made even lovelier because it was accompanied by a wide mouthed champagne flute filled with giant sweet strawberries surrounded by shaved black and white chocolate. A slice or two placed in the glass was the perfect way to start what turned out to be a flawless evening.

Harbour Sixty

Our waiter took such care in presenting each plate with complete descriptions and if asked, some of the ingredients as to help our palate perceive each mouthful. A fennel salad arrived with assorted black and green leaves wrapped with a slice of cucumber to hold the leaves in a floral display. The fennel was wrapped in itself and both were dusted with a light almost imperceptible vinaigrette.

A properly chilled Sauvignon Blanc accompanied our Mahi Mahi tuna, which arrived just as the salad was removed. The long rectangular plate was framed at the top with Wasabi Mustard and at the bottom with a garlic aioli mayonnaise. A gingered soya sauce swirled to the left of the fish which was encrusted with a spiced corn crust.

And now the waiter provides us with a house Italian which has been breathing for 20 minutes while we have admired the first two courses, engaged in conversation and examined the remarkably tasteful new decor. Here in a room that can accommodate almost 90 people, one hardly notices the guest enjoying themselves at the tables all around. Thick chairs, deep rich carpet, padded tables and crisp white linen table clothes absorb the sounds. Yes, here is a restaurant that respects the art of conversation and encourages it. No music and virtually no “noise” so customary in the new and trendy spots.

A piece of braised beef arrives just as our red wine glass is properly filled to accompany the beef. Tender, juicy and perched on a sundried tomato toast. The beef is perfectly presented in a square shape on a two triangles facing opposite directions to create a geometric plating I have never seen before. It is at this juncture that I comment one shapes and sizes. Our salad was a round floral, our tuna a perfect rectangle, now squares and triangles. All plates are white appropriately sized and designed to compliment the food in shape and style.

Since Harbor 60 is known for its steak, a filet must be part of the sumptuous feast. Sumptuous it is and accompanied by a perfect piece of snapper. Both are served without cover sauces — no need — the flavor is strong enough on its own. The mouth watering steak prepared exactly as
I requested and retains just a hint of the grill flavour. The snapper is soft and flakey, white and fresh and so perfectly paired without conflict to the steak. Our sides include marvelous garlic mashed potato, button mushrooms, spinach and crisp tangy fiddle heads.

I told you it was an unforgettable evening, didn’t I?

As the chilled dessert wine is poured the desserts are brought on two completely separate plates. Oh yes another sampling is placed in front of us. At this point we can taste each, but just taste. The most moist and creamy banana bread pudding. Exquisite, I proclaim and the waiter explains that it is made with chocolate croissant. The vanilla and dolce ice creams are home made and exceptionally smooth and creamy. A slice of coconut cream pie with thick rich whipped cream topping and a firm crusty shell is covered with a drizzle of chocolate syrup. One more … just to taste… a mouton chocolate tart filled with HOT chocolate syrup which oozes out and is perfect with a spoon of ice cream and a mouthful of dessert wine.

It was memorable and perfect. Harbour 60 is MUCH more than a steakhouse. It is one of, if not the finest restaurant in town.

5 out of 5